Thursday 14 May 2015

Bruges Part 2 : Beer!

And we are back to Bruges!!  And just in time for day 4 and to join us at breakfast!  Once fed and watered, it was off to the local market in T'zand Square.  One of the largest in Europe or so they say...though I reckon everyone says that about their own local market.  I won't lie and say that it was the most outstanding market I've ever been to but I do enjoy a good market and this one generally delivered.  Lots of locals shopping around for clothes and deals and different types of food, ranging from dried sausages to ornate cakes.




Having finished at the market quicker than planned, we headed to the Benguine House which has been frozen in time since about the 18th century.  In short, the Benguine house was built by an old clergyman, with the aim of single women living together: to encourage religion and pious acts seemingly.  It's always enjoyable entering a place that has been preserved in time, even if it's for tourism, as it lets you see how everything has changed since: both physically, socially and mentally.  Sadly, the place was fairly packed (cursed Saturdays!!) but it eventually quieted down and we got to wander through the historic house in some peace, enjoying the abundant lace.






















Before anyone says anything...I realise there is no lace in any of the pictures.  Finally, it was time for one of the things that I was most looking forward to: de Halvemaan Brewery tour (and a tasting of their signature beer, Bruges Zot).  Having booked ahead, we turned up and became part of a massive group that was thankfully split into two.  If you drink beer, and haven't already, I would really recommend that you take a tour wherever you can, as it really opens your eyes about beer.  For example, did you realise that hops are from the same family as Cannabis and that's part of the reason for 'good beer feelings'? Me neither! 

After seeing the modern brewery, we then got to see the old brewery where everything in sight seemingly had to have somebody crawl inside and clean them.  Surely not the toile...nah, that would be silly!  Joking aside, we got a great tour guide who knew what she was talking about and wasn't afraid to talk about other beers as well, to help give you a really good picture of the beer process.
 










After we drank a well-earned Blonde Bruges Zot, we headed off to 'de Buhne', a well-received (and rare) vegetarian restaurant in Bruges.  Being promptly turned away as they were shutting early, it was then off to the Duvelrium for a less exciting lunch plan, which involved a beer taster plate and a rather massive plate of cheese cubes and breadsticks...not quite what I expected when we ordered a cheese plate but oh well.


With a spring in our step despite the poor cheese plate (thank you, good beer feelings), we headed off to the folklore museum for a whimsical museum detailing myths and legends.  Whoops.  Turns out something was lost in translation and it turned out to be a museum detailing the lives of different careers from historic Bruges.  Not our best day.  Still, it was interesting enough to see the different lives with the various models, though perhaps the best bit was being rather surprised by the cat model actually being alive.  It is a bit startling when a model turns and glares at you for waking it up.  The museum also had an interesting section on an old fencing club that had begun in around the 15th century that was still around today, but overall, a bit of a letdown.

Finish with the museum and with it being wet and cold, we did the only thing we could and went to the highest rated waffle shop in Bruges that was probably the most expensive as well.  Here we were treated to the biggest waffle we had ever seen: it was so large, we had to split one between two!  I fully regret not taking a picture of it, as it covered the entire plate.  To wash it down, we ordered two hot chocolates which were spectacular.  Basically, you were given a glass of steamed milk and an ornate chocolate flower filled with chocolate curls that you then drop into the milk and watch it melt.  It tasted pretty good as well, which is a bonus (or you know, the main reason for ordering hot chocolate - Ed).

The rest of the rain filled afternoon involved some present buying and then some packing as we left the next day.  The night ended with the two of us romantically (or so I think) sharing some Frittes under the Belfry arch that we bought from a stall (which is the traditional place to get them).  As we arrived into day 5, I made a secret vow not to eat any frittes/chips again for a very, very long time.

Day 5 sees us checking out from the hotel with heavy hearts, although our day was far from over, as our flight was late at night.  Leaving our bags at the hotel, we headed for a rather interesting start to the day: a newly opened Historic torture museum.  This was a rather graphic start to the day but it did have perhaps the most involved museum curator I've seen.  Here he was, wandering up and down the exhibits talking people through various items and paintings, with a smile on his face.  One of the most interesting aspect of the museum was the section detailing the gradual abolishment of torture for various countries, and highlighting how evolving morality affected this


Having had our fill of medieval torture, possibly for a lifetime, we went to the beer museum (yes, I know) that was, for me anyway, the biggest surprise of the trip, by how good it really was.  It was also a good example of how technology can be used effectively in a museum as well.  From the start, you're given a tablet and headphones that you use to scan the exhibits.  Once scanned, you are given a variety of options e.g. listen to a narrator; read the text; or view various picture.  It really allowed for a lot of information (based on the history of beer) to be held within a small building.  Then on the second floor, you get to wander around some old beer vats that gave you the option to handle different ingredients for beer, and smell and touch them (I refrained from tasting).  Altogether, this was a really great museum experience.  Whilst I admit that it would have been nice to have more physical exhibits, rather than just the technology, the museum combated this with the upstairs section. 



Plus at the end, you're given 3 different tastings unlike the one from the brewery. In addition, the bar had over ten different drafts (including one which has only had 1000L brewed and was delicious) that you could try.  And my favourite thing? Rather than having the tasting at the same time, you're actually given three beer tokens so you could come and go as you please.



With a couple of beer tokens in our pockets, we headed off to De Buhne for round two but had to leave as they don't serve the vegetarian menu on a Sunday!  Gah!  Oh well, it's a good excuse to go back.  Our remaining time in Bruges was spent mixed between getting presents for people, wandering around the square for one last time and spending our beer tokens.  This flurry of last minute activity resulted in trying a rather unique beer that had been aged for two years in a wine barrel and in buying one of the best Easter eggs I've seen, stuffed with mini egg truffles.




All too soon (pretty sure I say that every time...maybe I should rename my blog that), it was time to get the bus to the airport and say goodbye to Belgium.  And I have to say, it was one of the most beautiful European cities that I've been in.  Whilst you can say that it's touristy, I really think that it handles it well and with the exception of the restaurants, it certainly isn't in your face.  Well worth a trip but be warned, it's hard to leave the chocolate and beer behind!!

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