Sunday, 17 November 2013

China Part 1: The order of the day is...duck?

So, I've decided to start my China travel blog a little earlier than I've planned...I've not even left Nepal yet. In fact, I'm sitting at a worn-down table, drinking an over-priced latte with almost three hours to go until my flight. And that's before any possible delays. This followed a fairly insane taxi journey who seemed to have little regard for cyclists... or pedestrians...or other cars...or us.

However, despite my limited journey, it's already been pretty interesting. Not only have I managed to arrange meeting my friend Xin Na for dinner tomorrow in Beijing but I've already had my obligatory Nepal airport special of 'Are you male or female?'! Nice to see I've still got my feminine appeal. Only another two or three pat-downs where I need to convince the guard that I'm male. Maybe I should bring my birth certificate with me next time.   I also got invited to join an Asian tour group which was nice. I don't think I've ever been an honorary member of anything...can't see them now though. *Sigh* such fleeting relationships.

Fast forward 24 hours and I'm sitting with a chilled Tsingtao at the desk in my hotel room and I'm both exhausted and stuffed. Seriously, I may not eat again.   Excuse me, I seem to be getting ahead of myself! Let us rewind a little. After I finished typing the first section, I ended up going through security to find my flight delayed by 45 minutes (this now being past midnight) meaning I missed my nice relaxing breakfast in Hong Kong and instead had to rush around getting something to eat quickly plus my money changed and a Chinese sim card.   I then boarded my next flight to Beijing only for it to sit on the tarmac for another 45 minutes. Not a happy bunny at this point. 

However, I pushed it aside and enjoyed the flight, got through immigration and collected my luggage quickly enough. I then went to get a taxi to the hotel. Being the researched-up, sensible wabbit that I am, I joined the official taxi rank queue and suddenly got ushered into a small mini-bus on my own. Uh-oh. Is that alarm bells I  hear? The driver then got in and made a big show of highlighting his number on his ID card (which I suspect is now fake as it was a series of Xs) but got a little annoyed when I turned over his card to look at the price. What's that? 700 plus RMB to the centre of town? But the internet told me it would be between 100 and 200? EEEEEHHHHHOOOOOOOEHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOEEEEHHHHHOOOOO. I got out of there quicker than something kind of fast and jumped into the next available regular taxi. Lo and behold, 130 RMB to the centre of town! Not a great start.

Then it got awesome.

I arrived at the hotel and started the check-in process. Everything was going fine and normally, when suddenly 'Ah yes, you've been upgraded'. I NEVER GET ANYTHING LIKE THIS. I now have a bigger hotel room with a bath and three, yes three shower heads! I might use a different one for each morning! That cheered me right up, The hotel overall is a little worn but really nice. The room has a great bed, a couple of soft chair, a good shower and a desk for my blogging. On top of that, it's got great staff, it's near an off-licence (can't see any bars anywhere) and is close to major sights. After my bags were dropped to my room I got changed, had a coffee and a shower then headed out to the city of Beijing.




My first impression is that Beijing is large in everything it does. The place itself is huge, the buildings loom over you and the people are animated and bustling: sellers hawk for your attention; tourists snap flashes in your face; police stand silent but watch your every move.  It really catches your attention and keeps your attention. However, it's neither as busy as I thought nor as dirty...in fact it is very clean in a variety of places. As for crowds, unless your near a major tourist sight or are on the underground, it's unlikely the crowds will bother you. Having wide pavements helps but it really isn't bad in places without them. Sadly, the roads are pretty busy but you don't need to cross them much...you can use the underpasses provided. 

After checking in, I ended up wandering round Tiananmen Square in the cold for a while as I took in all the various monuments built around the area and marveled at certain buildings (some of the architecture is stunning). Inside I checked out the gates that still stood and the monument of the people but mostly, I just enjoyed walking around this massive and significant square whilst thinking about all the history involved in the place.  

It is worth noting (as a warning) that within 15 minutes of leaving my hotel for the first time, I got approached by a scam artist...then by a further 4 that day. Sorry ladies, I tend to automatically assume that anyone approaches me to 'go for a coffee' or check out their 'art exhibit' are trying to scam me (if I don't know you anyay), I'm not the kind of person that people randomly approaches. It did help though that I read up on a list of scam before I flew out. Here are few examples:
  • Your hotel burned down
  • The taxi driver puts you in a mini-bus, not a regular taxi
  • They want a coffee and to practice English
  • They want you to see their artwork





Before I could do much else, I received a message from my friend Xin Na who had just arrived at my hotel. Rushing along the insanely long wall of the Forbidden City, I made it back to meet up with my friend and ex-flatmate Xin Na, whom I hadn't seen in three years. What followed was a pleasant afternoon chatting and catching up as we wandered around the area, where I got to try some of the local yoghurt. After a while, we decided it was time for dinner. That was a very, very, very good decision. 

You see, she decided to take me to a famous restaurant called Quanjude: a chain of restaurants renowned for its Peking Ducks (you even get a certificate with the code and number of the duck you ate). At this 5 floor giant of a restaurant, we met up with our friend Harry whom was joining us for dinner, so I caught up with him as well. Eventually, our table was ready and we sat and chatted as Xin Na ordered for us and she did not disappoint. After the green tea and the beer came, a deluge of different dishes flooded the table, starting with a delicious pea jelly cube thing (I didn't get the name).  Next up was Snakehead fish soup, seasoned duck giblets and chicken with chestnut. Ohoho, it didn't stop there either.  Steamed vegetable in sauce and a whole roasted fish arrived shortly after. All delicious and all new to me. 

Then the piece de resistance arrived: the duck. The duck was heavenly. You got the roast duck sliced up with pancakes which you build up yourself. You take a pancake and spread it out, pick some duck and dip it in some hoi sin sauce, add it to the pancake, garnish with some vegetable then wrap and eat it.  As a bonus, I did it all with chopsticks!  Utterly amazing, cooked to perfection and a great end to the meal. Except it wasn't over yet. We then also got some of the duck's skin crackled a little and dipped in sugar, some soup made from the carcass of the duck and duck spring rolls. I'm not sure I've ever had a meal like it. It has been a long time since I've used the phrase 'suitably stuffed' but this is one of those times.


This was a great start to my trip and a great way to balance out the delays.  As it was still early, after we said goodbye, I then decided to go for a beer somewhere and start my blog. Sadly, I wasn't near a bar but I did find what I thought was a famous food market: Dongfuman Night Market.  I later found this out to be a different market but let's ignore that for now. So, despite being stuffed, I wandered up and down the street and felt compelled to try a couple of items...as research for this blog.  I hope you all appreciate what I go through to write this sometimes (not sure you're getting away with that excuse - Ed). 

 I decided on two items...deep fried milk and some small scorpions. The things I do...The deep fried milk wasn't as bad as I thought: just like a creamy/custardy doughball served with sugar (I ignored that mostly). I wouldn't go out my way to eat it again but it was perfectly edible. Next up the scorpions which were crunchy and that's about it. Very little flavour and less than a mouthful each. I did removed the stingers though. See for yourself!









And that's that. Day one over. I grabbed a beer from a local shop, typed for a while, skyped home for a little bit then fell into a very deep and food induced sleep. Day two next! Not bad for a couple of hours sleep eh?


Pick of the Week

Red Hood and the Outlaws - A spin-off series from Batman with the recently revived Jason Todd (after being killed by the Joker).  A modern and mature take on a gallery of roguish 'superheroes' that don't exactly get along well as they take on an ancient cult.  Good humour, human characters and good action throughout.  Check it out.


Music of the Week

Recently rediscovered this album which was a firm favourite when I was younger.  Machine head - Crashing Around Me...enjoy!

More China trip next week!  See you then!

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