Ok, rather than blabbering on, let's just dive right in!
Part 3: Hakone
Ok, it's
the end of day 8 and it has been a slightly more eventful day than I
anticipated. Arriving in Hakone, we
originally planned to head to the hotel and have a lazy day but we decided to check
out the local volcanic springs on the mountain.
Despite having sat on a train for the past 85 minutes, we then decided
to jump on a train again, this one zig-zagging its way up a mountain for 40
minutes. Next, was a tramline, which had a
crushing throng pushing its way onto it.
Until now, Japan has had really polite and civilised queuing system but
this was just awful...you were crushed whether you were young or old (Years of metal concerts have prepared me for this). This took us straight up the mountain and
dropped us at the next mode of transport: a cable-car. Giving us beautiful views in the process, the
cable car (or ropeway as it's known here) took us to the volcanic springs, our final stop. Here, other than enjoying the strong stench
of sulfur and watching the smoke billow (we didn't do the walk as we had
limited time), you could get some eggs that are boiled in the springs, turning
the shells black (to be tested on day 9).
Having enjoyed the views, we headed down the mountain and went to check
into the hotel.
Getting to
the hotel, we checked in and was told something about dinner in Japanese but
thankfully the receptionist pointed in the general direction, so we thanked him
(not really knowing what he had said) and headed to our room. We had decided to spend some extra money to get a
Japanese bedroom and it was well worth it.
Entering the front door, you arrive in the hall where you take off your
shoes and don your slippers before following the hall to the sliding
doors. Opening the sliding door, we were
greeted to a sight of a traditional tatami mat room, with Japanese styke table plus a
seperate riverview window with seats.
Not only this, but we got a seperate toilet and a bath that uses natural
hotspring water with it. Finally, what we
later found out was that during dinner, the table had been moved and our bedding
laid out on the floor for us. If you ever get the chance, I would
highly recommend this or a similar room...I've talked about transporting you to
the past before and this does just that. It really
lets you live in the past and makes you feel like an emperor or empress! Especially once you put on your robes...DRESS UP TIME!
So, after
some green tea and Japanese sweets, we headed down to dinner, unsure of what to
expect. Again, we were not
dissapointed. Being directed to our own
private dining room, in the traditional design, we were served dish after dish
after dish. Primarily fish based, we got
sashimi and sushi, aperitifs, rice, soup, grilled vegetables and various other
dishes. Two particular highlights of the
meal was the shubi-shubi and the fish broth.
A traditonal monks food, the shubi-shubi starts off as a bowl of water
on your tray and your server lights the cooker underneath. After the water starts to warm, you then add
some meat, seasonal vegetables, soy sauce and spring onions to create a broth/stew/soup, so that they cook whilst you
eat other dishes. Once it is ready, you ladle into a spare bowl and get to savour the dish that you helped create. The other highlight
was the fish broth. Starting off the
same, the server lights the cooker undernead and it begins to simmer away...but
that wasn't the highlight. Nope, this
was the small but whole (dead, of course) octopus floating around in it. When it Rome, eh? Oh, I also ate a snail as well...so small
octopus and a snail. I was not expecting
this at all. Alas, I didn't bring my
camera so you won't get to see the octopus or the dinner layout. This was washed down with a nice chilled
bottle of sake, a must if you're having a meal like this. My pictures of the meal are non-existant but my mum may have some. If she does, I will update this in the future.
Onto the
bit you were all waiting for: the nudity!
I am very sorry to reveal that the nudity involved me, so it is probably
quite a dissapointment. You see, one of
the reasons we picked this hotel was that it had outdoor hotsprings included and I
thought it would be a good way to relax.
What I did not realise, perhaps naively, was that swimming costumes were
now allowed. Not even a little. Nope, you have to and I quote 'cover yourself
with your little white tower' which translates to not very well covered. Regardless, I ploughed straight in (not the best choice of words - Innuendo ed) and
tried out the baths.
So, you
arrive in your robes into the changing rooms and put your slippers onto the
shelves for storage. Next is the
difficult part...the disrobing. Now,
despite past incidents, I am not used to taking my clothes of in front of
strangers (probably a good thing) and as such, it was a new experience
stripping off in the room with only a little white towel for protection. Still, when in Rome (my war cry for this trip). Next, I hurried into a steamy room with an
indoor pool and the taps/showers where you rinse off, which I did quickly. Thankfully, there was nobody in, so I was
more relaxed as I opened the sliding door to the cool breeze of outside...I had
made it! Victory had never felt so
toasty and warm! So, I slid into the
toasty waters of the pool and relaxed whilst watching the stars. It was incredible. I've never been in a hotspring before and
I've certainly never bathed under the stars before but it was such an incredibly
relaxing and liberating feeling to just sit and cook whilst under the stars. I even felt slightly emboldened and got out
of the pool to look at the river...before the sliding doors opened behind me
and I practically dove back into the shallow pool.
Finally, after drying off, I then spent some time trying all the
products and having my feet prodded and vibrated and my back pummeled by some
electric massagers.
As you may
guess, I don't have any pictures (again, probably a good thing). Also, what I found out after
bathing, is that I had did it wrong. I
just rinsed and bathed but you're supposed to rinse, bathe, wash then bathe
again. Annoyingly, I had missed the sign
because I had took my glasses off...as this was very much a glasses off
situation (finally, a plus to being shortsighted). After an hour or so relaxing in the room's
alcove, it was time to sleep on the bedding that had been layed out on the
floor for us.
Rolling out
of bed (quite literally) on day 9, it was time for a quick shower and some
breakfast. This was particularly
memorable for me as I got to have BACON.
Sweet, sweet bacon. In case you
haven't guessed, Nepal doesn't have a huge amount of bacon. After breakfast and after a leisurely stroll
to the station (along a lovely canal area), it was time to clickity-clack our
way back up the mountain via the mountain tran but this time, we managed to get
seats on the best side for some stunning vistas. As we crawled up the mountain, you get to see
steep hills covered in thick forests, which are an explosion of gold, reds and
browns. Peppered through these views,
are old bridges and houses, creating a perfect scenic view.
*I still cannot get over the fact that trains have
urinals nor the fact that they don't feel the need to frost over the window of
the urinal room - Robbie's insecurity*
After a
less crushing tram ride straight up the mountain, we jumped back onto the first
cable car which took us to Owakudini, the
active volcanic hot springs. Sadly, due to
landslides, we couldn't get to the peak but we did take a walk up around some
of the steam vents/springs which were really interesting to see (and smell)
plus you got a great panoramic view of the valley as well. I even got to have a traditional Japanese
sweet: two small pancake like items with black bean paste and icecream between
them. Next, we walked up the shack that
sold freshly spring boiled eggs (Harvest Moon flashbacks) with pure black
shells (blackened by the minerals). I
did eat one and it was quite tasty but as I don't eat many boiled eggs, I don't
have anything to compare it with. I was
told it tasted similar though. However,
you are supposed to get a few years of life added for each one you eat, so
that's an added bonus if it's true. I
was also surprised to see that everyones favourite Japanese character, Hello
Kitty, likes the black eggs as well.
Riding the
2nd cablecar down the mountain, we were treated to a view of Lake Togendai surrounded by the hills
and forests. After a quick walk down
into the village (and seeing but not trying purple sweet potato ice cream), we
then boarded the gaudiest looking boat I had every seen which took us across
the lake in an absolutely fabulous fashion.
We managed to get a spot right at the front so we could really enjoy the
trees rushing by us and we also managed to see an old temple hidden in the
trees plus a vermillion Torii gate as well. I did not anticipate how cold it was...
After
disembarking, we arrived at Hakone-Macho
(Please insert joke here - Humour Ed) which
was an admittingly undescript small village/town. However, there were some really interesting
mosaic wood items which are made by glueing different kinds of wood together in
a pattern by hand. Nice looking but
expensive, even by Japan's standards.
After a quick coffee to defrost (it was pretty cold on the boat) and a box of waffles with ice cream and maple syrup, we
walked down to an old Checkpoint,
which gave a fascinating look into how it was to travel in days long
gone. Outfitted with dummies to show how
it would have looked all those years ago and equipped with various items, it
described how all travellers had to pass through these gates to be inspected,
and that often, they would be kept in a guest room that was filled with weapons
to intimidate them. It also showed some
of the criminal catcher tools they used to use: brutal looking weapons that
look more to maim, than catch. It was
here, oddly enough, that I finally found some chopsticks I liked.
Finally, we
took a pleasant walk down the Ancient
Cedar Avenue, where the trees have been for hundreds of years to the next
village area: Moto Hakone. Here, we just caught a bus back to Hakone
Yumato, where we were staying.
Six methods of transport in one day...I think that's a personal record! After
arriving, we had a quick look around the shops, tasting lots of their products
before heading back to the hotel.
Despite being in a communal dining area this time, we still were given a Kaiseki
style dinner, so lots of sashimi and fish with a kettle filled with fish/broth
which was a nice touch. No baby octopi
this time but I did get a bit of their parent...there was (much) larger pieces
of tentacle in one of the dishes, with the sucker attached. Quite tasty actually! Also, we then got brought a dish of sashimi,
where it had the whole fish on the plate, pinned so it looked like it was
swimming. I felt like it was staring
into my soul as I ate parts of it. Once again, I need to get pictures of this but I will hopefully have them soon.
Next was
the baths again and I managed to get it right this time! Rinse, bathe, wash, rebathe. Nice and relaxed, I finished packing then had
a beer and typed. Also, I tried out a
drink that we had won in a 7-11, some kind of fizzy milk drink...I was all ready
to assume that it would be disgusting (I mean, fizzy milk) but it wasnt awful. It was actually drinkable. I wouldn't go out my way to drink it but if I
had to, I could.
So,
that brings me to now. A quick morning
bath (in a different bathing room: they switch) after a bacon filled breakfast
and here I am, making my return to Tokyo like Gojira in the sequels.
Sightseeing is my destruction.
Pick of the week
Ovenless Chef - Ok, I don't have an oven, which has made my culinary tasks slightly more difficult. I will admit, I was starting to get stumped about to vary my meals. Then I came across this! A huge variety of ovenless recipes across every type of dish: from sweets to syrup to meals. Hell, I'm even trying the chicken and cheddar dumplings from it tonight! Check it out, even if you have an oven!
Music of the week
Hmm, I'm going to have to go with a firm favourite of mine and a band that is especially good to have a beer to. Korpiklaani - Beer Beer...you know you want one!
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